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Off the Beaten Track

Askja

The immense 50 sq km (19.3 sq mi) Askja caldera is remote, even for Iceland. Cold, windy and forbidding, it provides ample evidence of the creative power of nature. The original caldera was formed in 1875 when debris ejected from the volcano here made a mess as far away as mainland Europe.

A more recent depression has subsequently filled with water and, with a depth of 217m (712ft), is now the deepest lake in Iceland. The striking sapphire blue lake remains frozen most of the year, but a tiny, newer crater inside it is still hot and perfect for swimming.

Grímsey

Part of the island of Grímsey, lying 41km (25.5mi) north of the mainland, constitutes Iceland’s only bit of territory within the Arctic Circle. The main reason for coming here is to admire the cliffs, which are 100m (328ft) high in some places - perfect for bird colonies that nest on the island.

Grímsey is the home of the most avid chess players in Iceland. Historically, losing a match has often resulted in the blunderer flinging himself into the sea - failure in chess was failure in life. While your life is probably safe if you’re asked to play, it’s best to treat the occasion seriously.

Helgafell

Helgafell is the holy mountain that figured so prominently in Icelandic history and literature, though in reality it’s a 73m (240ft) hill. The first Icelandic þing, or legislative assembly, met here in the 9th century, but it was later moved to the flat promontory Þingvöllur after assembly members defiled the sacred mountain with their toilet ablutions.

The mountain apparently still retains some of its magic, and those who follow a few simple rules while climbing it are entitled to have three wishes granted.

First, you must climb the southwest slope to the temple ruins without speaking or glancing backwards. Second, the wishes must be for good and made with a guileless heart. Third, you must descend the eastern slope and never reveal your wishes to anyone.

Jökulsárgljúfur National Park

The Jökulsárgljúfur (’glacial river canyon’) National Park is Iceland’s newest reserve. Sometimes referred to as ‘Iceland’s Grand Canyon’, it possesses the country’s largest gorge, luxuriant vegetation, bizarre rock formations and caves, the steep-walled valley of Ã?sbyrgi and myriad waterfalls.

Other highlights that are equally majestic in name and appearance are Hljóðaklettar, the echoing rocks; the lush and lovely springs of Hólmatungur; and Dettifoss, Europe’s most powerful waterfall. The park is east of Húsavík, in northeast Iceland.

Kerlingarskarð

The name Kerlingarskarð means ‘witch pass’. According to legend, this eerie place was haunted by a female troll until she turned into a stone pillar at the foot of Kerlingarfjall, the mountain that forms the east side of the pass. Nearby is a lake, where the witch is believed to have fished.

In the 1800s, a local resident reported seeing huge tracks leading into the water, and a number of sightings of Loch Ness-style creatures have also been reported. If you dare, it’s possible to camp and explore around the lake


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